28‏/04‏/2013

The Red Lanterns of Juso Osaka

Ode to the crossroads of the Kansai working man

By Bonson Lam

Community writer

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Juso the crossroads between Umeda, Itami Airport, Kyoto and Kobe

Sake Wine and Song all part of the nightlife in Juso the crossroads between Umeda Itami Kyoto and Kobe

Ganko Japanese Chain Restaurant in Juso the crossroads between Umeda Itami Kyoto and Kobe

Great Sushi at Juso the crossroads between Umeda Itami Kyoto and Kobe

The streets are lit up with Neon signs at Juso the crossroads between Umeda, Osaka Itami Airport, Kyoto and Kobe

Small Family and Chain Food outlets dot the laneways of Juso the crossroads between Umeda Itami Kyoto and Kobe

Juso is the crossroads of Osaka. Passed by millions of people each day from Osaka to Itami Airport, or from Kyoto to Kobe on the Hankyu railway line, they rarely get a glimpse of the underbelly of Osaka. From the dated kitchenware shops to the Sakaemachi red light district, this town has grunge and mystique in equal quantities. Stroll the streets for fantastic okonomiyaki at Yamamoto’s without the glitz of Dotonbori or Namba. Lose yourself in the back lanes where Black Rain was filmed, starring Andy García, Ken Takakura, Michael Douglas and the Osaka Yakuza. Its edginess also attracted Steven Stegall into opening his dojo. Nearby is Fandango, a graffiti covered abandoned warehouse blasting out the raw energy of local hard rock bands.